By Len Richmond
The most interesting part of our two-day holiday in Avalon was what we didn’t see. So I’m going to start this review at the end of our journey.
When we were leaving the island after an event-filled weekend, we met two friendly locals who were also waiting for the Catalina Ferry to Long Beach (www.CatalinaExpress.com). Jessica and her teenage daughter Pam (not their real names) told us the true story of Catalina – what the tourists never see. We were riveted by their tales of drug runs and federal agents.
They revealed that whenever the immigration service come over on the ferry to try and catch the undocumented workers – who are the lifeblood of the Island – word quickly gets back to Avalon’s business owners before the boat with the authorities ever arrives. Secret messages are passed to the restaurants and hotels. Within minutes, the locals open their homes to their employees. That’s when the parties begin. On those glorious afternoons, living rooms and patios across the island play host to the undocumented kitchen help, waiters, maids, etc. The tables are turned as they are served food and beverages by their employers. When the INS agents get off the ferry and go in search of “illegals” there are none to be found. They have vanished into the life and heart of the island. This, more than anything else, illustrates the true spirit of Catalina and its warm, caring, somewhat unconventional inhabitants.
Then there’s the drug trade. The side of the island that is sparsely populated has an exciting, cops-and-robbers tale of its own to tell – and Jessica and Pam gave us all the juicy details. Small boats clandestinely deliver bundles of cannabis and cocaine to the deserted shores of Catalina which the tourists never see. These drug runners are stalked – thought seldom busted – by the federal authorities trying to stop the illegal shipments. As a result of this brisk drug trade, the teenagers who live on Catalina have a steady supply of high-grade pot. Which undoubtedly helps them get through the long boring winters. Jessica and Pam said that cocaine was usually not the drug of choice – except on the expensive yachts that harbor there.
The third fun-fact that we learned from mother and daughter as we waited together for the ferry, was how risky the Island’s famous Zip Line Eco Tours could be (www.VisitCatalinaIsland.com). I didn’t partake. I chickened out after hearing the presentation that all prospective zip-liners were required to sit through before harnessing up to propel down five separate zip lines, dropping from 500 feet to 60 feet, at speeds up to 45 mph.
I was warned that if you get stuck in the middle of a zip, and simply hang there precariously above the ground, the employees will throw you a 20 pound bag of sand with a long rope attached—which you have to catch and then pull yourself to safety. Apparently there are a zillion ways get stuck, pull muscles, crash into the landing strips, and generally have mid-air freak outs. I decided that at my age I didn’t need to prove my manhood. Unfortunately, year ago, Jessica felt a need to prove hers, and it went terrible wrong. Once you’re on the Zip Line Eco Tour, you’re on till the end. Jessica recalled that minimum-wage teenage boys were supposed to catch her when she flew from perch to perch—but in her case the teens were joking around and not paying attention. Jessica crashed hard into the wooden structure and broke her leg. It took them hours to get her down and to a hospital. Needless to say, her daughter Pam is forbidden from zipping anywhere at anytime.
Putting aside Jessica’s cautionary tale, we found Avalon a very fun place for a short vacation. But be warned, it isn’t a quiet, folksy enclave anymore. Everything’s changed. Now Avalon is noisy, lively and filled with Disney-like family-fun attractions. Catalina used to be known for two things: a calm place to retire and a close-by beauty-spot where you could get away from the hustle and bustle of L.A. But that’s all now in the past.
What Avalon has in abundance these days is extreme sports, wild sea adventures, kayaking, and competitive beach games. In short everything to amuse your teens and children. Unfortunately, I don’t have kids and I’m not keen on kayaking, so one weekend was enough. On the boardwalk, they don’t really stroll, they walk at a brisk pace. Everybody seems to be rushing off to do something “exciting” and “fun”.
You may have heard that an earlier generation would travel to Avalon to dance to the rhythms of big bands and gamble the night away. The first part is true, but the gambling anecdote is pure legend. There were never slot machines or roulette wheels. The wrongly named “Casino” was simply a dance hall. Although it was originally built as a gambling establishment, the entrepreneurs who owned it never managed to get the proper permission – so the “Casino” remained so in name only.
We stayed in the Atwater hotel (125 Sumner Avenue. 310-510-1788). It was less expensive, but I can’t say I can whole-heartedly recommend it. The Atwater is old, but still lacking in charm. No telephones in the room. Ancient TVs. No elevator. A friendly but overworked staff (I never walked though their lobby without seeing a long line of frustrated, tired tourists waiting to check in or out—with only one person on the desk to help). Our great Avalon discovery was a superb restaurant on the boardwalk. We ate all our meals there and never had less than spectacular dining experience. It’s called the Avalon Grille (423 Crescent Avenue. 310-510-7494).
When I went to Catalina as a kid I was bored to death, but it’s changed even more than I have. Avalon is no longer a sleepy little town. It’s the Catalina Ride, an island theme park, with always something to do and no rest for the weary.
(Len Richmond is an author and playwright and occasional contributor to the British Weekly.)
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